We took a good few days off in Coyhaique to rest up, and to have our belated Christmas treats that we'd missed on the road (mainly food-related). We knew we'd be stopping at the hostal for New Years as well so we could properly kick back and relax for 4 or 5 days. Hostal Las Salamandras was a truly excellent place to chill out for a while, really cosy log fire, a video player with loads of English films, comfy hammocks and loads of really nice people (and there's photos of the unbelievably cute hostal-puppy, Leche, up in the 'photos' section now I think.)
New Years was a huge barbeque with a dozen other hostal guests and another dozen of the hostal-owner's friends around as well, so it turned into a really good party. Massive steaks, chorizo and Loganiza sausages, spuds, salads, pasta, beer, wine, champagne, chocolate vodka, pisco (the local Chilean fortified wine)... An excellent menu for a New Years bash. We overindulged hugely and had a great night, although i think our rousing rendition of 'Auld Lang Syne' confused most of the non-Brits there.
But, alas, we couldn't stay there forever so once the bikes were cleaned up and headaches cleared, Rich and I hit the road again, to complete the Northern half of the Carretera Austral.
We'd met plenty of tourers coming the other way in the South who'd told us about the endless rain they'd had in the North, so we were expecting the worst, but for the next 6 days riding to Chaiten, we enjoyed nothing but uninterrupted, scorching, blazing, burning sunshine. It's so unusual for this time of year apparently to have so much good weather in one go, so we felt like it more than balanced out all the horrors we'd had further South.
It was really amazing to be able to see all the views: all the snow-capped peaks, all the glistening blue rivers and lakes and the lush green valleys... all the things that you cant see or appreciate when its raining. Although the roads were still really bad in places, and we had to struggle through sandy and rocky surfaces that give no traction, with ruts and potholes for long stretches, it really is so much easier to cope with all that when the sun's shining and the views are good! We could keep ourselves clean in the rivers and streams that alongside and under the road, wash some clothes occasionally and that made everything feel much nicer as well. We had some lovely camping spots along the way as well - hopefully we can get some photos up soon which might give you some idea!
When we rolled into Puyuhuapi on the third morning out of Coyhaique, we met up with Ryan and Erica again. We'd met this American/Swiss couple on the first day of our trip in Tierra del Fuego and then spent the New Years in the Hostal Las Salamandras with them as well. We spent that day riding with them which was great, as we've not had a chance to ride with anyone else this whole trip.
So 6 beautiful days after Coyhaique, we arrived in Chaiten (after another long final day
and found ourselves a campsite. Rich and I had some dinner and then had a few drinks with the Hostal owner, Jorge, and his friend, both of who absolutely loved British music, especially rock and metal from Maiden to The Beatles. Excellent night. J turned up the next morning as well and it was great to see him... we weren't quite sure if our messages to him about our change of destination would get through.
Got on the boat to Puerto Montt on Wednesday night, which was a 10-hour overnight-mare. There was very little space to sleep and lots of screaming kids, but we snatched a few hours here and there and were happy to see Puerto Montt on the Horizon when the sun came up.
It's our first really big city since we arrived in South America and it's been a bit of a culture shock, especially coming from the relative loneliness of the Austral. It's the first place where we've been begged at, the first place where we've been told not to leave our bikes outside shops while we went in, and its all a bit different. But... it does have its advantages... We've been enjoying the Fast Food (our first sight of South American McDonalds, KFC and Pizza Huts and we went to see Casino Royale last night which was brilliant (except for that scene with the chair. If you've seen it you'll know what i mean ) 
But tomorrow morning Rich and I are back on the road again, with stomachs full of food. We're looking forward to being mostly on paved roads for the foreseeable future, but it's going to be quite different now we're into the more populated areas. Heading across to San Martin de Los Andes in Argentina, then probably staying in Argentina most of the way up to the Bolivian Border.
Keep in touch all! Its great hearing from you when we can check the website!
All the best,
Blenka
New Years was a huge barbeque with a dozen other hostal guests and another dozen of the hostal-owner's friends around as well, so it turned into a really good party. Massive steaks, chorizo and Loganiza sausages, spuds, salads, pasta, beer, wine, champagne, chocolate vodka, pisco (the local Chilean fortified wine)... An excellent menu for a New Years bash. We overindulged hugely and had a great night, although i think our rousing rendition of 'Auld Lang Syne' confused most of the non-Brits there.
But, alas, we couldn't stay there forever so once the bikes were cleaned up and headaches cleared, Rich and I hit the road again, to complete the Northern half of the Carretera Austral.
We'd met plenty of tourers coming the other way in the South who'd told us about the endless rain they'd had in the North, so we were expecting the worst, but for the next 6 days riding to Chaiten, we enjoyed nothing but uninterrupted, scorching, blazing, burning sunshine. It's so unusual for this time of year apparently to have so much good weather in one go, so we felt like it more than balanced out all the horrors we'd had further South.
It was really amazing to be able to see all the views: all the snow-capped peaks, all the glistening blue rivers and lakes and the lush green valleys... all the things that you cant see or appreciate when its raining. Although the roads were still really bad in places, and we had to struggle through sandy and rocky surfaces that give no traction, with ruts and potholes for long stretches, it really is so much easier to cope with all that when the sun's shining and the views are good! We could keep ourselves clean in the rivers and streams that alongside and under the road, wash some clothes occasionally and that made everything feel much nicer as well. We had some lovely camping spots along the way as well - hopefully we can get some photos up soon which might give you some idea!
When we rolled into Puyuhuapi on the third morning out of Coyhaique, we met up with Ryan and Erica again. We'd met this American/Swiss couple on the first day of our trip in Tierra del Fuego and then spent the New Years in the Hostal Las Salamandras with them as well. We spent that day riding with them which was great, as we've not had a chance to ride with anyone else this whole trip.
So 6 beautiful days after Coyhaique, we arrived in Chaiten (after another long final day
and found ourselves a campsite. Rich and I had some dinner and then had a few drinks with the Hostal owner, Jorge, and his friend, both of who absolutely loved British music, especially rock and metal from Maiden to The Beatles. Excellent night. J turned up the next morning as well and it was great to see him... we weren't quite sure if our messages to him about our change of destination would get through.Got on the boat to Puerto Montt on Wednesday night, which was a 10-hour overnight-mare. There was very little space to sleep and lots of screaming kids, but we snatched a few hours here and there and were happy to see Puerto Montt on the Horizon when the sun came up.
It's our first really big city since we arrived in South America and it's been a bit of a culture shock, especially coming from the relative loneliness of the Austral. It's the first place where we've been begged at, the first place where we've been told not to leave our bikes outside shops while we went in, and its all a bit different. But... it does have its advantages... We've been enjoying the Fast Food (our first sight of South American McDonalds, KFC and Pizza Huts
and we went to see Casino Royale last night which was brilliant (except for that scene with the chair. If you've seen it you'll know what i mean ) But tomorrow morning Rich and I are back on the road again, with stomachs full of food. We're looking forward to being mostly on paved roads for the foreseeable future, but it's going to be quite different now we're into the more populated areas. Heading across to San Martin de Los Andes in Argentina, then probably staying in Argentina most of the way up to the Bolivian Border.
Keep in touch all! Its great hearing from you when we can check the website!
All the best,
Blenka
on January 21, 2007, 9:14 pm
Realy I´m suffering your trip and feeling my knee is hurted as Richard´s. Is jamie´s hurted too?
I am following you now that I could have some time, I saw Steve n Tara do the same. I wish you LESS wind, GOODknees, and SUCCESS.
Regards from Hector. Ah! Káitek thinks she is the cutest puppy, only a little bigger than Leche.
Kisses from Marga
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on January 25, 2007, 4:23 pm
Gracias por enviarnos el mensaje. Pensamos de ustedes todo el tiempo, y de Abra Ushuaia tambien!
La rodilla de Rich está mucho mejor ahora, pero la de Jamie le duele mucho todavia. El va a descansar un poco mas y esperamos que va a mejorar en un ratito.
Gracias de nuevo,
Blenka
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